Mountaineering in Nepal

Mountaineering in Nepal is appropriate. The first trekker in Nepal is appropriate. The first trekkers in Nepal were, of course, mountaineers who where either on their way to climb peaks or were exploring routes up unclimbed peaks. There was furious mountaineering activity in Nepal from 1950 to the 1960s the emphasis had shifted to previously impossible feats such as the south face of Annapurna and the south west face of Everest, both of which were climbed by expeditions let by Chris bonington. The expeditions in the 1960s and 40s were often well equipped, and some times lavish, thanks to sponsorship from governments, foundations, magazines, newspapers, film makers, TV producers and even private companies.

Expeditions have become big business and climbers now approach the job with the appropriate degree of seriousness and dedication. It is not uncommon for expeditions to refuse trekkers admission into their base camps. The team members do not have the time or energy to entertain tourists, and there have also been incidents of trekkers taking souvenirs from among the expensive and essential items that often lie around such camps.

There are three seasons for mountaineering in Nepal. The permission season from April to early June was once the only season during which expeditions climbed major peaks.

In the 1950s all expeditions where in the lull before the storm period that occurs between the end of the winter winds and the beginning of the monsoon snow. Cold and high winds drove back the Swiss expedition to Mt Everest in 1952 when they attempted to climb the mountain in the autumn. It was not until 1973 that an expedition success fully climbed Everest in autumn.
Now the autumn or post monsoon season of September and Scoter is a period of many successful expeditions.

In 1979 the ministry of tourism established a season for winter mountaineering. It is bitterly cold at high elevations from November to February, but recent advances in equipment technology have allowed several teams to accomplish what was thought before to be impossible a winter ascent of a Himalayan peak.

Climbing during the monsoon, from June to august, is not practical from the Nepal side, though the north face of Everest has been climbed during august. Two organizations control climbing in Nepal.


Seasons
There are four mountaineering seasons spring (March-May), summer (June-August), autumn (September-November) and winter (December-February). A total of 153 Himalayan peaks are open to mountaineers. Climbing permits are issued by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation (MOTCA) for 135 peaks known as mountaineering peaks, and by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for 18 smaller peaks, known as trekking peaks, which range from 5,587 to 6,654 m in altitude.

Permission
The following documents have to be sent to MOTCA, Mountaineering Division when applying for a climbing permit completed application, endorsement of the National Alpine Club, short biographies of all the members of the expedition (with photograph and signature), map and/or photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route and approach route map. Enlistment of the expedition's name does not require any fee and it should not be paid before receiving the permit from the Ministry of Tourism.

Permits to climb the 18 trekking peaks are issued by NMA on "first come first served" basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognized trekking agency of Nepal as a local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu. The trekking agency will look after all the requirements during the expedition.

Fees
A royalty (climbing fee) ranging from US$ 1,500 to US$ 10,000 (according to the altitude of the peak) and US$ 50,000 for Everest is charged by MOTCA for a group of seven persons. An additional US$ 20,000 is charged for the normal south east ridge route on Everest. An additional US$ 200 to US$ 1,500 per person (US$ 10,000 per person for Everest) will be charged if the group exceeds seven persons. The full amount of the royalty has to be paid within two months of the date of issue of the permit, otherwise it may be cancelled. The royalty must be paid directly to MOTCA by bank draft or bank transfer in convertible foreign currency only.

For trekking peaks, a royalty of US$ 300 or US$ 150 is charged by NMA. The permit is valid for a period of one month for a group of up to 10 persons. An additional amount of US$ 7.50 per person is charged if the group exceeds 10 persons.

A rebate of up to 40% on the royalty may be given during the summer and winter seasons. Full or partial rebate for a fixed period may be given for new peaks or for unclimbed open peaks, on "first come first served" basis.

Restrictions
Food and equipment imported for expeditions require an import license and should be custom cleared. Walkie-talkies, transreceiver sets and other communication equipment are controlled items in Nepal and have to be declared at the customs office at the entry point.